The Spice is Right
By Mecca Bos-Williams |
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(Photo by JD Havens)
Chef Sameh Wadi says he named
his restaurant after the most expensive spice in the world “because our cuisine
is just like the spice—very precious.” Wadi uses saffron in almost every dish on
his menu as well as his new line of spice blends, Spice Trail, available at the
restaurant. How does one use something more valuable than gold (or, at least,
silver) so extravagantly? Judiciousness. Wadi says he goes through approximately
an ounce of saffron every other week.
Iranian saffron
Saffron comes from many places all over the world, but if I had my way, I
would use Iranian saffron exclusively. The threads have a deeper color as well
as a more pungent aroma and flavor, so I use less of it overall. With some of
the Spanish saffrons I get, I have to use four times as much in a particular
dish to achieve the same result. However, when I was purchasing Iranian saffron
in 2006 to 2007, I was paying $25 per ounce. Now I’m paying $240, and that’s if
I can get my hands on it. Last time—and I don’t even like to talk about this
because it just about gives me a heart attack—I bought a pound for $1500. That’s
almost gone now.
Spanish saffron
Spanish saffron is what most people are probably using. In Spain, saffron
is graded on a score, and the best is called “coupe.” The score refers to the
coloring power and the color of the actual thread. (The thread is the
hand-picked stigma of a crocus flower. There are only three stigmas per flower,
and it takes more than 14,000 of these to make an ounce of saffron.). The
majority of very high-quality Spanish saffron threads should be red with no
yellow color—the yellow portion of the thread also has to be removed by hand. I
can still get good quality Spanish for about $100 per ounce.
Indian saffron
They probably use more saffron in India than anywhere else in the world,
but unfortunately with that kind of volume it can often be compromised. Real
Kashmir saffron is very difficult to get right now, and the last time I had it I
received it as a gift. (Penzeys has a small amount in stock right now for
$150/oz.). Never buy any saffron as a ground powder, because it can be easily
compromised—for instance, the yellow (less desirable) threads will be ground
down and cut with beet powder and then sold as pure saffron.
Wadi says it’s best to try and find a connection to a wholesale spice
provider such as Classic Provisions (classicprovisions.com). In lieu of that,
only buy from a reputable source, such as Penzeys. Spice Trail is available at
Saffron.
Saffron
123 N. 3rd St., Mpls.
612.746.5533
saffronmpls.com
Penzeys Spices
3028 Hennepin Ave., Mpls.
612.824.9777
674 Grand Ave., St. Paul
651.224.8448
7626 160th St. W., Lakeville
952.953.1788
penzeys.com
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